Hair Treatment

Skin and scalp barrier for use with hair treatment products

Hair Treatment Abstract
Compositions for the protection of skin and scalp during hair relaxer treatment. Also disclosed are processes for producing said compositions, and methods of using said compositions during hair relaxer treatment. The compositions of the invention protect the scalp from the irritating side effects of hair relaxers, but do not interfere with the straightening activity of the hair relaxers. The compositions of the invention comprise paraffin and a paraffin miscible ester.

Hair Treatment Claims
What is claimed is:

1. A method of protecting skin and scalp from the irritating side effects of hair relaxers without interfering with the hair straightening action of hair relaxers, said method comprising applying to a user's scalp, prior to the application of the hair relaxer, a protection-effective amount of a composition comprising:

a) about 10-85 weight percent parrafin; and

b) about 15-90 weight percent of at least one ester, wherein the ester is of the formula:

wherein n is 0, 1, or 2;

wherein R.sub.1 is selected from the group consisting of C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkene, phenyl, benzyl, polyhydroxy C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkanols, C.sub.1 -C.sub.5 amino acid, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl-amine, and C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 oxy-alcohol;

wherein x is selected from the group consisting of a single bond, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkene, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl-oxy C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl-carboxy C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, phenyl, and phenyl C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl; and

wherein R.sub.2 is defined the same as R.sub.1, and R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 may be the same or may be different.

2. A method of relaxing hair without irritating the skin and scalp which comprises applying a protection-effective amount of a composition comprising:

a) about 10-85 weight percent parrafin; and

b) about 15-90 weight percent of at least one ester, wherein the ester is of the formula:

wherein n is 0, 1, or 2;

wherein R.sub.1 is selected from the group consisting of C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkene, phenyl, benzyl, polyhydroxy C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkanols, C.sub.1 -C.sub.5 amino acid, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl-amine, and C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 oxy-alcohol;

wherein x is selected from the group consisting of a single bond, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkene, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl-oxy C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl-carboxy C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, phenyl, and phenyl C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl; and

wherein R.sub.2 is defined the same as R.sub.1, and R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 may be the same or may be different, to a user's scalp, and then applying a hair relaxer to the user's hair.

Hair Treatment Description
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates to compositions for protecting scalp when undergoing straightening or relaxing of hair. In particular, the compositions of the present invention block the skin irritation side effects of the highly alkaline hair relaxers, but do not interfere with the straightening action of the relaxer on the hair.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION

Aqueous highly alkaline hair relaxing or straightening compositions are known in the art. These compositions usually have a highly alkaline pH of about 12 to about 14 due to the presence of an alkaline material such as water-soluble alkali or alkaline earth hydroxide or an organic chemical base such as guanidine, guanidine hydroxide or quaternary ammonium hydroxide. These products, although very effective, are irritating to the skin and scalp, and are often used with a protective barrier or base such as mineral oil or petrolatum applied to the scalp prior to the application of the hair relaxer.

Also available are highly alkaline hair relaxers of the type commonly called "no-base" hair relaxers. Even though the products are called "no-base" a small amount of the barrier compound must also be used with such products, i.e., the hairline and ears are coated with a protective oleaginous base such as petrolatum, mineral oil or lanolin, before applying the highly alkaline hair relaxer. One type of no-base hair relaxer formulation contains as the active hair straightening agent an alkali metal hydroxide, typically a caustic base, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. When a relatively low active level of about 1.5 to about 2.5 weight percent of caustic base is used, the protective base is applied only to the hairline to protect the skin around the forehead, ears and neckline. Such no-base formulations preferably have some of the protective oleaginous material emulsified in an aqueous composition, and are supplied in a single product kit.

A preferred and more recently developed type of no-base hair relaxer formulation is commonly called a "no-lye" hair relaxer. For some users a protective base need not be applied to the scalp and may need not be applied to the hairline with a no-base, no-lye relaxer. The term "no-lye" means that the active hair straightening agent is not NaOH or KOH. In commercial practice, the relatively strong organic chemical base, guanidine is usually present in the form of guanidine hydroxide. However, guanidine hydroxide is not generally stable for long periods in aqueous solutions. Consequently, it must be prepared fresh just before using.

Also available are more stable formulations of the no-base, no-lye type hair relaxers, and these are prepared using LiOH.

Because the prior art barrier or base compounds interfere with the straightening action of the relaxer if they coat the hair shaft, the application of the barrier or base is a very tedious and time consuming process. This process involves separating the hair into very small segments to apply the compositions only to the skin and scalp and not to the hair itself.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present inventors have discovered that a composition comprising mostly paraffin and a paraffin miscible, ion-permeable ester blocks the skin irritation side effects of the highly alkaline hair relaxers when a light coating of the gel is applied to the skin or scalp prior to applying the relaxer cream. Surprisingly, the ester composition does not interfere with the action of the relaxer on the hair. The present invention, therefore, involves a method of relaxing hair with the additional component of the skin and scalp barrier composition that allows rapid application of the materials to the head and very thorough action of the relaxer on the hair.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

FIG. 1 shows how the RPF is affected as the percentages of Dioctyl Maleate in Mineral Oil are changed.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The principal components of the compositions of the invention are paraffin and an ester. The compositions comprise about 10-85 weight percent paraffin and about 15-90 weight percent paraffin-miscible and ion permeable esters. The resulting composition may be a gel or a liquid. The viscosity of the composition may be altered as desired by the addition of a thickener such as Cab-O-Sil.RTM. (fumed silica).

Other components that can be added to the compositions of the present invention include fragrances, preservatives and other conventional hair care adjuvants.

The paraffin may be of two general types: liquid paraffin or mineral oil; or white soft paraffin, yellow soft paraffin, or petrolatum. These components are known to those skilled in the art and are available commercially.

The esters usable in the present invention are selected from the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association, Inc., (CTFA) approved esters which, when mixed with the paraffin of the present invention, produce a composition which has the properties of the present invention. Preferred esters are esters with the formula

wherein n is 0, 1, or 2;

wherein R.sub.1 is selected from the group consisting of C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, C.sub.1 C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkene, phenyl, benzyl, polyhydroxy C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkanols, C.sub.1 -C.sub.5 amino acid, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl-amine, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 oxy-alcohol; wherein X is selected from the group consisting of a single bond, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkene, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl-oxy C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkylcarboxy C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, phenyl, phenyl C.sub.1 -C.sub.30 alkyl, and wherein R.sub.2 is defined the same as R.sub.1, and R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 may be the same or may be different.

Most preferred esters are those wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are each C.sub.4 -C.sub.20, especially C.sub.6 -C.sub.10, alkyl groups and where n=1 or 2. The most particularly preferred ester is dioctyl maleate. Specific esters which can be used in the present invention include acetylated glycol stearate, acetylated sucrose distearate, acetyl tributyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl trioctyl citrate, amyl acetate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, butyl acetate, butyl acetyl ricinoleate, butyl myristate, butyl oleate, butyl stearate, C18-36 acid glycol ester, C12-15 alcohols benzoate, C12-15 alcohols lactate, C12-15 alcohols octanoate, C18-20 glycol isostearate, C14-16 glycol palmitate, C11-15 pareth-3 oleate, C11-15 pareth-3 stearate, C11-15 pareth-12 stearate, C12-15 pareth-9 hydrogenated tallowate, C12-15 pareth-12 oleate, cetearyl isononanoate, cetearyl octanoate, cetearyl palmitate, cetyl acetate, cetyl lactate, cetyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, decyl isostearate, decyl oleate, decyl succinate, dibutyl adipate, dibutyl phthalate, dibutyl sebacate, Di-C12-15 alcohols adipate, dicapryl adipate, dicetyl adipate, diethoxyethyl succinate, diethylaminoethyl stearate, diethyl aspartate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethyl glutamate, diethyl phthalate, diethyl sebacate, dihexyl adipate, diisobutyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisodecyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl diinoleate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisostearyl adipate, diisostearyl diinoleate, diisostearyl malate, dilauryl citrate, dimethyl phthalate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl diinoleate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl phthalate, dioctyl sebacate, dioctyl succinate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol salicylate, ditridecyl adipate, ditridecyl diinoleate, ethoxydiglycol acetate, ethoxyethanol acetate, ethyl acetate, ethyl glutamate, ethyl laurate, ethyl linoleate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, glycol dioctanoate, glycol distearate, glycol hydroxystearate, glycol oleate, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, hexanediol distearate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl acetate, isoamyl laurate, isobutyl acetate, isobutyl myristate, isobutyl palmitate, isobutyl pelargonate, isobutyl stearate, isoceteareth-8 stearate, isoceteth-10 stearate, isocetyl isodecanoate, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl laurate, isodecyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl acetate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl linoleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl oleate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl sorbate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl tallowate, isostearyl benzoate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearoyl stearate, laureth-2 benzoate, laureth-6 citrate, lauryl isostearate, lauryl lactate, lauryl methacrylate, lauryl myristate, lauryl palmitate, lauryl stearate, methyl acetate, methyl caproate, methyl caprylate, methyl caprylate/caprate, methyl cocoate, methyl glucose sesquioleate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, methyl hydroxystearate, methyl laurate, methyl linoleate, methyl myristate, methyl oleate, methyl palmitate, methyl pelargonate, methyl stearate, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, myristyl stearate, nonyl acetate, octyl myristate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, oleyl acetate, oleyl linoleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl oleate, oleyl stearate, propylene glycol isostearate, propyl acetate, propylene carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicocoate, propylene glycol diisonananoate, propylene glycol dilaurate, propylene dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol distearate, propylene glycol laurate, propylene glycol myristate, propylene glycol oleate, propylene glycol stearate, stearyl acetate, stearyl caprylate, stearyl citrate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, stearyl stearate, sucrose acetate isobutyrate, sucrose benzoate, sucrose distearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose stearate, tributyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, triethyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisopropyl trilinoleate, trilauryl citrate, trimethylopropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioctanoate, trioctyl citrate, and tristearyl citrate. These esters are known to those skilled in the art and are commercially available.

The compounds of the present invention are made by mixing together the ingredients, typically with heating and agitation, by methods known to those skilled in the art.

The compositions of the invention are applied to the scalp, skin, and generally some hair prior to the application of the relaxer. The compositions of the present invention may be used with different types of hair relaxer products including lye-type, no-base, and no-base, no-lye type. The compositions of the present invention have been tested against commercial products including DARK AND LOVELY/BEAUTIFUL BEGINNINGS.RTM. (Guanidine Ohio), PERFECTLY YOURS.RTM. (LiOH), and REALISTIC.RTM. (NaOH) relaxers.

The particular advantage of the compositions of the present invention over the prior art skin barrier products, such as mineral oil or petrolatum, is that the compositions of the present invention surprisingly do not interfere with the relaxing action of hair relaxers. The application of the hair relaxers is therefore far less tedious and time-consuming. In the prior art methods of applying the barrier product, the product had to be carefully applied to the scalp by parting the hair many times and applying the barrier on the scalp at the base of each part. If the person applying the barrier did not cover the scalp completely, the person undergoing the hair straightening treatmetn would experience mild to severe stinging and burning. If the person applying the barrier allowed the barrier to cover the hair near the scalp, the hair that was covered by the barrier would not be relaxed. Thus, the entire hair relaxing process was very time consuming and possibly quite uncomfortable for the person undergoing the treatment. By using the present invention however, the barrier can be applied very generally and the barrier will 1) protect the skin and scalp, and 2) not interfere with the relaxation of the hair.

While not wishing to be restricted in any way, the present inventors believe that the compositions of the present invention increase the lipid-like character of the skin and are substantive with the skin. This interaction with the skin is believed to cause the skin to be more ion repellant and therefore less irritated by the highly alkaline relaxers. Because the hair does not have lipid properties, the compositions do not become substantive with the hair and the compositions therefore do not interfere with the action of the relaxers on the hair itself.